Most people know Rwanda through the 1994 genocide, in which 800,000 people were killed in just 100 days. The spectre of that tragedy lives on, through a traumatised population, constant media coverage, and a government which uses the event as a tool of reconciliation but also to exert control. Despite this, however, Rwanda is a forward-looking country. I had the fortune of living for four years in the country in the mid-2000s and found a welcoming and optimistic people. With the economy, human development, infrastructure, health and education all improving rapidly, against a backdrop of breath-taking scenery and wildlife, it is sometimes difficult to picture the horrors that came before.
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